COMMISSIONS & ORDERING
How do I request a custom commission?
Fill out the commission request form on the Commission page. Give me as much detail as you have — subject matter, occasion, any text or imagery you want included, preferred wood, and approximate size. I’ll follow up within 48 hours with questions, a rough quote, and next steps.
Do I need to know exactly what I want before reaching out?
Not at all. A lot of commissions start with something like “I want a wedding gift with a scripture verse” and we work out the rest from there. I’ll ask the right questions, and I can show you design mockups from Vectric Aspire before anything gets cut.
What information helps you give an accurate quote?
The more the better — but at minimum I need to know the approximate size, whether it’s a relief carve or flat V-carve, the occasion or end use, and any specific imagery or text. Wood species preference helps too, though I’m happy to make a recommendation if you’re unsure.
Can I see a design proof before you start cutting?
Yes, always. Every commission gets a digital mockup approved before the machine runs. You’ll see the toolpath layout, carve depth visualization, and overall composition. I won’t cut until you’re satisfied with the design.
How far in advance should I order for a gift or event?
For standard commissions, plan for at least three to four weeks from approval to delivery. For larger or more complex pieces — multi-panel work, deep 3D relief carves, pieces requiring special lumber sourcing — six weeks is safer. If you have a hard deadline, tell me upfront and I’ll let you know if it’s workable.
Do you take rush orders?
Sometimes, depending on the current queue. Rush orders carry an additional fee. Reach out with your deadline and I’ll give you an honest answer rather than a false promise.
What’s your deposit policy?
I require a 50% deposit to begin design work on any commission, with the balance due before shipping or pickup. The deposit covers my design time and material costs.
Can I cancel or make changes after I’ve approved the design?
Design changes before cutting are generally no problem — that’s what the approval process is for. Once the machine has run, changes are not possible and the deposit is non-refundable. I’ll always confirm with you before starting a cut.
PRICING & TURNAROUND
How do you price your work?
Pricing is based on four factors: material cost, machine time, finishing complexity, and design time. A simple V-carve sign on pine runs considerably less than a deep 3D relief carve on figured sapele. I quote every commission individually — there’s no meaningful shortcut to a flat price list for custom work.
What’s the starting price for a commission?
Small pieces — a name plaque, simple V-carve, or flat sign — typically start around $75 to $100. Mid-size relief carves with moderate detail generally run $150 to $350. Large or complex 3D relief work on premium hardwoods can run $400 and up. These are rough starting points, not guarantees — the quote you get is based on your specific piece.
Why does wood species affect the price?
Material cost varies significantly across species. Basswood and pine are economical and machine well for lighter work. Cherry, walnut, and maple are premium domestic hardwoods — they cost more and require more careful toolpath planning. Sapele is imported and carries the highest material cost of the species I regularly stock. Better wood makes a better piece, and the price reflects that honestly.
Do you charge for the design/mockup?
Design time is included in the commission quote. If a project doesn’t move forward after the mockup stage, the deposit covers that work.
Are your shop items priced differently than commissions?
Yes. Shop items are finished pieces priced to reflect material, machine time, and finishing. They’re generally more accessible than commissions because the design work is already done.
MATERIALS & WOOD SPECIES
What wood species do you work with?
My regular stock includes walnut, cherry, sapele, hard maple, basswood, and southern yellow pine. I can source other species on request — white oak, poplar, ash, and cedar are all workable — though special sourcing adds lead time and may affect pricing.
How do I choose the right wood for my piece?
I’m happy to make a recommendation based on your end use, color preference, and budget. Here’s a quick breakdown of what I reach for and when:
Walnut — dark, rich, and serious. Excellent for detailed relief carves. The contrast between carved and uncarved surfaces is outstanding.
Cherry — warm reddish-brown that deepens with age. My go-to for heirloom pieces, wedding gifts, and anything meant to last and be passed down.
Sapele — an African hardwood with a dramatic ribbon figure in the grain. Visually striking and machines beautifully for deep relief work.
Hard Maple — light, clean, and tight-grained. Takes fine detail extremely well. Good choice when you want the carving to be the focal point without the wood competing.
Basswood — soft, consistent, and economical. Great for intricate carves where detail is the priority over wood character. Often used for painted or stained pieces.
Southern Yellow Pine — rustic, characterful, and honest. Grain can be dramatic and unpredictable, which works for the right aesthetic. Economical and widely available.
Does grain direction matter for a CNC carve?
It matters a great deal. I orient grain deliberately for every piece — running with the longest dimension of the carve when possible, and planning toolpaths to minimize tear-out on end grain. If grain direction affects the final look in a meaningful way, I’ll point it out during the mockup review.
Do you use kiln-dried lumber?
Yes. All stock I use is kiln-dried to appropriate moisture content. Green or improperly dried lumber warps and moves on the spoilboard, which ruins a carve. I also acclimate boards in the shop before running them.
Can I supply my own wood?
I can work with customer-supplied lumber if it’s properly dried, flat, and surfaced. I’m not responsible for outcomes if the material has hidden defects, internal stress, or moisture issues. We’ll discuss it before I agree to use it.
CNC PROCESS & TOOLS
What machine do you use?
I run an X-Carve 1000mm with a DeWalt 611 router. It’s a capable workhorse for the size work I do — detailed relief carves up to roughly 28″ x 28″, with repeatability that holds tight tolerances across long machine sessions.
What software do you design in?
I design and generate all toolpaths in Vectric Aspire. It’s professional-grade CAD/CAM software built specifically for CNC woodworking, with strong 3D relief modeling tools. Every commission gets a full toolpath simulation before cutting starts.
What’s the difference between a V-carve and a relief carve?
A V-carve uses a V-shaped bit to cut tapered grooves that form letters, borders, and flat artwork. The result is crisp, graphic, and reads well from a distance. It’s the right tool for signs, nameplates, and text-heavy pieces.
A 3D relief carve uses ball-nose bits at varying depths to sculpt dimensional forms directly into the wood — leaves, figures, animals, portraits, scenes. It’s a fundamentally different process: longer machine time, multiple bit passes, and a result that reads like a carved sculpture rather than an engraved surface. Most of my personal work and premium commissions are relief carves.
How long does a carve take?
Highly variable. A simple V-carve sign might run 45 minutes. A detailed 3D relief on a 12″ x 16″ board can run four to six hours of machine time, not counting setup, workholding, and finishing. I don’t rush machine settings to hit a time target — feeds and speeds are set for surface quality first.
Can you carve photos or portraits?
Yes, with some caveats. Photo-to-relief conversion works best with high-contrast images and strong facial structure. I’ll evaluate your reference image honestly and tell you upfront if it’s going to carve well or not. A good portrait carve starts with a good reference photo — at least 300 DPI, well-lit, with clear shadow definition.
CARE & FINISHING
What finish do you apply to your pieces?
My standard finish process starts with Watco Danish Oil, which penetrates the wood and enhances the natural grain color without building up a thick film. I follow that with wipe-on or spray polyurethane for durability and protection. The number of coats depends on the piece’s intended use — decorative wall pieces get a lighter build than pieces that will see handling or moisture.
Is the finish food-safe?
Standard poly finishes are not food-safe and I don’t recommend my pieces for direct food contact. If you need a cutting board or food-contact surface, reach out — I can discuss finish options appropriate for that use case.
How do I clean my piece?
For wall pieces and decorative carves, a dry or very lightly damp microfiber cloth is all you need. Avoid soaking the wood, harsh cleaners, or abrasive scrubbers — they’ll break down the finish over time. No dishwasher, ever.
Will my piece fade or change color over time?
Wood is a living material and will change. Cherry is famous for its patina — it starts reddish-pink and deepens to a rich reddish-brown over years of light exposure. Walnut can lighten slightly. These are features, not flaws. Keep pieces out of direct prolonged sunlight if you want to slow the patina process.
Can I hang my piece outdoors?
My standard finishes are not designed for exterior exposure. Outdoor pieces need a dedicated exterior finish — UV-inhibiting spar urethane at minimum. If you want an outdoor piece, tell me during the commission process and I’ll finish it accordingly. Even then, covered outdoor locations are strongly preferred over fully exposed ones.
My piece got a scratch or ding — can it be repaired?
Minor surface scratches in the finish can often be addressed with a light re-coat of wipe-on poly. Deeper damage to the wood itself may require sanding and refinishing. Reach out with photos and I can advise on whether it’s a DIY fix or worth sending back to the shop.
How should I store a piece I’m not displaying yet?
Keep it flat, away from heat sources and exterior walls, and in a stable humidity environment. Avoid attics, garages, and basements — temperature and humidity swings are hard on wood. A climate-controlled interior space is ideal.
SHIPPING & PICKUP
Do you ship?
Yes. I ship within the contiguous United States via UPS, FedEx, or USPS, depending on size and weight. Every piece is packed with care — carved faces protected, corners cushioned, and nothing loose in the box. Shipping cost is calculated at checkout or quoted with your commission.
Do you offer local pickup?
Yes, and I prefer it for larger pieces. I’m in High Point, NC. Pickup is by appointment — reach out through the contact form or commission request to arrange a time.
How do you pack fragile or large pieces?
Carved faces get foam padding first. The piece is then wrapped, boxed with fill material on all sides, and double-boxed for anything over a certain size or value. I’ve had good results with this approach — but I’ll tell you honestly if a particular piece is too large or fragile for me to feel confident shipping it, and we’ll figure out an alternative.
Do you ship internationally?
Not currently. The combination of customs paperwork, extended transit times, and climate exposure in international shipping creates too many variables for wood pieces. I’d rather not send something I worked on into a situation I can’t control. This may change — check back or reach out if you’re outside the US.
How long does shipping take once a piece is complete?
Domestic shipping typically arrives in three to seven business days depending on your location. I’ll provide tracking as soon as the label is created. Expedited shipping is available at additional cost if you need it faster.